![]() To make this even more perplexing, a 80' pine tree 10' from the house got a direct hit years ago - killed the top 1/3rd - can see the trace bark damage all the way to the ground. The strike tripped a 15 amp breaker for the ceiling lights (!) THEORY: strike EMP received by ceiling wires acting as antenna. The main panel had a uber expensive Cutler Hammer surge protector that after the strike was still showing green lights. ![]() Of course a perfect sharp edged square wave may not be desired (!) Lots of HF roll off welcome I'd think. ![]() RE: this RS 1500: The square wave is far from ideal. (And if such UPS are pure sine wave, that sounds right to me.) Then there are spikes something you're trying to avoid with a UPS.įor UPS that are always on the inverter (non-switching) if the output is Modified Square, I would under no circumstances subject a PSU for that input continuously no matter what anyone says. This HF passes to the secondary where it must be dealt with. If this goes into a transformer, it heats it up. I don't know what the ramifications are in a switching PSU but Square waves have a complete spectrum of high frequency content. Ringing introduces a spike which is never welcome.forgot phase too. Square wave characteristics like ringing, rolloff, boost, etc. Maybe "high quality" means the "quality" of the wave, not the robustness of the unit. "simulated" sine wave may be different from "modified" sine wave - especially when they market a "square" wave as a "sine" wave (again should be called Modified Square Wave if being truthful.) All these non-sine wave terms can only be defined by oscilloscope traces. ![]() I have no idea was a "high quality" "simulated" sine wave UPS means. I'm not buying it since it's clearly a cheap output for a switching power supply.Īs far as some upper tier companies saying Modified is OK, I would not expect that of low-end PSUs Never again (unless I found another one for free) Obviously I could not go out and replace the UPS for $800. Now I had 6 new batteries and nowhere to use them. The unit worked just fine, then the batteries needed replacement. I got up to about 90% and called it quits. I opened them all, added water and did 40 daily charge/discharge cycles, each cycle increasing their capacity. It was new but sat on shelf so long the batteries were dead. I had a $800 Triplite 2200va UPS that used SIX of those 7ah 12v batteries. 1-battery is easy to deal with since home UPS are not robust. If I replace 2 or 4 batteries in a UPS only to find it's bad, now I have 2 or 4 new batteries I need to find a home for. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician. ![]() These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK, or this one for German outlets) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. Note every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. Oh, what does your UPS say the line input (output from your wall outlet) say? The mains transformer supplying power to your home may have a bad tap (it happened to me - see this). And typically a 1500VA UPS uses 2 - 4 cells to make up its battery and that 1500VA is enough to support most PCs, 1 or 2 LCD monitors, and all your home network gear too. Generally speaking, the more cells, the higher the capacity and/or longer run time the battery provides. You put 4 cells together, they still make just one battery. If you put two cells together, they make one battery. Click to expand.Not understanding what you mean by "1-battery". ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |